If you’ve been separated from your partner, family, or friends because of the worldwide pandemic, you’re not alone!
Many of us are going through this experience, and we all try to support each other. We share stories and experiences in Facebook groups (Love Is Not Tourism, Couples Separated by Travel Bans), sign petitions to open the borders, or take initiatives in our own countries.
We all want to be reunited again! If you’re looking for a source of information or want to take any action, you can visit loveisnottourism.org and learn more about how you can contribute with your voice!
Right now, it’s not easy to travel between Europe and the USA. It’s a huge travel challenge for most of us, but there are still options on how you can do it.
If you’re like me - a European considering a journey to the USA - you might need to spend 16 days (including arrival and departure day) outside of the Schengen Area to be able to enter the USA.
You can go to many places, like Croatia, Turkey, Mexico, Aruba, etc. It’s up to you. I chose Turkey because it was close to my home country, my friend lives there, and there are direct flights with Turkish Airlines to the USA.
Through an amazing Facebook group (Couples Separated by Travel Bans), I met great people staying in Istanbul for the same reason I was and was thinking how strong our love must be if we all are taking this path to be with our partners!
And I know that there are still many brave people considering the same journey!
After spending most of my 16 days in Istanbul, I’ve decided to share my experience with you. Together with some people I met and my friend who is a local living in Istanbul, I’m sharing some tips that could help you plan and enjoy your stay in this lively city and get successfully to the USA.
Fingers crossed for all of you!
Camlica Mosque in Istanbul - Turkey
You can read from the beginning, which starts with my experience at the airport in Istanbul, or you can choose a topic that is the most relevant to you. Here you go:
COVID-19 restrictions in Istanbul
Before you travel to Turkey, make sure you’re familiar with all the restrictions related to the COVID-19 pandemic.
When I was there, it was mandatory to wear a face mask outside the home throughout Istanbul, and you have to follow social distancing guidelines.
When entering a store or a restaurant, they’ll measure your temperature, and you’re supposed to use disinfection.
Turkey takes the pandemic seriously, and it’s essential to follow the rules, but if you’re outside in places without people around you, you can take your mask off if you’re like and want some fresh air. At least I didn’t have any issues with that.
Hagia Sophia in Istanbul - Turkey
Public transportation in Istanbul and how to get from the airport?
Arrival at the airport in Istanbul
Istanbul has two international airports. The Istanbul International Airport (IST) on the European side and the Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW) on the Asian side. The Istanbul International Airport (IST) is closer to the city center.
Before arriving in Turkey, you have to complete a passenger locator form. Usually, this form is provided by your airline, so you should be able to fill it in during your flight. You’ll be asked to provide the residential address of where you’ll stay in Turkey and your contact information.
I was traveling from the Czech Republic, and once I arrived at the Sabiha Gokcen International Airport, there was no testing or screening. It was a straightforward way directly to passport control. In my case, the officer didn’t ask anything, and I understood that many people have had the same experience. You need to show your passport and hand in the completed passenger locator form. Ensure the officer stamps your passport as it will be the main proof of how long you stayed in the country before traveling to the USA. All officers do that. This is just in case. 😊
How to get from the Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW) to the city center?
There is currently no metro line connecting the airport with the city center.
If you’re lucky like me and have a good friend who can pick you up from the airport, go for it. It’s a comfortable, safe, and crazy driving style experience if your friend is a local. 😊
Otherwise, you can find more options on how to get from the airport, but these ones listed below are the ones that I would choose when traveling alone as a woman in Istanbul:
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Havabus Airport Shuttle Bus - the Havabus bus operates three lines, and it’s the cheapest option to get from the airport. The price differs based on where you go. You can take the Havabus bus from the Sabiha Gokcen Airport’s Arrival Terminal. Just exit the terminal, and you’ll see a building with a sign “Shuttle to the City Center.” Walk through to get your bus.
Usually, you’ll need to get the Istanbulkart to pay for the bus as cash is not accepted, but my friend Yasmine arrived at the end of October and she was told to pay in cash. So, have some coins and banknotes ready. The prices are 18 TRY to get to Taksim and 14 TRY to get to Kadikoy and Yenisahra.
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Taxi – taxi is the quickest way to get from the airport to your hotel. You may see more taxi colors at the airport, and you want to choose a yellow one. Yellow taxis are the cheapest ones and charge normal taxi fares. The other ones charge you more because these are more luxurious cars.
Once you exit the airport, you’ll see many yellow taxis in front of you to choose from. It can take 45 minutes or more, depending on the traffic to get from the airport to the city center. Check on the taxi section to learn more about the prices and practical information when getting a taxi in Istanbul.
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Private transfer – this is a good, quick, and safe option that I didn’t experience in Istanbul, but I used a private transfer in the past and booked with getyourguide.com. I also heard that Tranigo airport transfer services are a good alternative. They are running services at both airports, but I don’t have any experience with them.
Based on my experience with getyourguide.com, you usually book the private transfer on their website, and then they’ll contact you. The communication is generally pretty smooth, and the driver is waiting at the airport for you. He/she will be holding a plate with your name, so that you’ll find the driver without any problems. That was at least my experience. Also, a private transfer is a pricier option, and don’t expect the driver to be always fluent in English. 😉
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Shuttle arranged by your hotel – many hotels offer a shuttle bus from the airport for an additional charge. If your hotel is close to the airport, you may ask them if they provide a free shuttle bus. It’s a safe way to get from the airport to your hotel. Just let the hotel know in advance and ask where the shuttle bus usually stays at the airport so that you can easily find it. Some hotels may even ask the driver to wait for you when you arrive at the airport.
How to get from the Istanbul International Airport (IST) to the city center?
There is currently no metro line connecting the airport with the city center. A new high-speed metro line is under construction and should be opened by April 2021 (according to Turkey's Transportation and Infrastructure Minister).
There are maybe more options on how to get from the airport, but these ones listed below are the ones that I would choose when traveling alone as a woman in Istanbul:
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Havaist Airport Shuttle Bus – a white bus with a big havaist logo is the cheapest way to get to many destinations. The havaist bus operates many routes, so check in advance which one you need, the timetable, and the price fare at their website. It’s IMPORTANT to know that you need to get the Istanbulkart to ride the bus. Cash is not accepted.
You can get the Istanbulkart from the machines called “biletmatik” at the airport or the havaist counters. There are more versions of the Istanbulkart, so get the “Anonymous Istanbulkart”, which is for tourists. Once you get it, you load it with money, and you can use it for public transportation in Istanbul, including the havaist bus for sure. 😊
Take the havaist bus from Istanbul Airport’s Arrival Terminal. The bus stop is close to the exit, and you only need to wait there once the bus arrives. You pay directly in the bus with your Istanbulkart.
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Taxi – taxi is the quickest way to get from the airport to your hotel. You may see more taxi colors at the airport, and you want to choose a yellow one. Yellow taxis are the cheapest ones and charge normal taxi fares. The other ones charge you more because these are more luxurious cars.
Once you exit the airport, you’ll see many yellow taxis in front of you to easily choose one. It can take 30 minutes or more depending on the traffic to get from the airport to the city center. Check on the taxi section to learn more about the prices and practical information when getting a taxi in Istanbul.
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Private transfer – this is a good, quick, and safe option that I didn’t experience in Istanbul, but I used a private transfer in the past and booked with getyourguide.com. I also heard that Tranigo airport transfer services are a good alternative. They are running services at both airports, but I don’t have any experience with them.
Based on my experience with getyourguide.com, you usually book the private transfer on their website, and then they’ll contact you. The communication is generally pretty smooth, and the driver is waiting at the airport for you. He/she will be holding a plate with your name, so that you’ll find the driver without any problems. That was at least my experience. Also, a private transfer is a pricier option, and don’t expect the driver to be always fluent in English. 😉
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Shuttle arranged by your hotel – many hotels offer a shuttle bus from the airport for an additional charge. If your hotel is close to the airport, you may ask them if they provide a free shuttle bus. It’s a safe way to get from the airport to your hotel. Just let the hotel know in advance and ask where the shuttle bus usually stays at the airport so that you can easily find it. Some hotels may even ask the driver to wait for you when you arrive at the airport.
Blue Mosque in Miniaturk in Istanbul - Turkey
How to get around Istanbul?
There are many options on how to get around Istanbul. My favorite was walking. It’s super easy to walk around the most popular places and sights, especially if you stay close to them. For sure, I didn’t walk everywhere. You can use ferries, buses, metros, trains, trams, taxis, or you can rent a car. I listed some of these options below.
Bus
A bus is the cheapest option for getting around Istanbul, but there are a couple of things to consider. First of all, most of the drivers (and passengers) don’t speak English, the busses are usually overcrowded, and it’s not easy to find out which one you should catch. If you’re brave enough to take the public buses, they should be safe, but I didn’t try it.
Metro and tram
Istanbul has a good metro and tram system that provides easy access to many important points on both European and Asian sides. It’s a good option to get from one place to another during the rush hour in the morning or the evening when people come back from work and traffic is terrible.
To use the metro and tram, you’ll need the Istanbulkart that you can get in ticket kiosks. You might also like to download the moovit app to see public transport as you don’t see it on maps.
Taxi
The taxi was my favorite option after walking to get to places I wanted to see. The yellow cabs with the sign “taksi” on the roof drive everywhere through the city, and you only need to wave at one. Some of them will even stop automatically to check and ask if you want a ride. If not on the street directly, you can pick up a taxi at a taxi stop, where you’ll see a taxi line.
If you’re concerned about your safety, ask your hotel to call a taxi for you or download an app “BiTaksi” or “iTaksi” and call a cab through this.
Taxis in Istanbul are cheap in comparison to European or USA prices. When you get on a yellow cab, the price starts at 5 TRY, and then you pay 3.1 TRY per kilometer. This helps you to calculate the approximate taxi fare that you need to pay for your route. If you’re driving from the European side to the Asian one or vice versa, you’ll be charged for a toll as well.
Here some useful tips when getting a taxi:
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Taxi drivers don’t speak perfect English. Some of them speak a little bit, some of them not at all. If you want to get to popular places like the Hagia Sophia, they’ll understand. Otherwise, you might need to show on a map or on your phone where you want to go.
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Don’t negotiate the price ahead! You rarely get a good deal. Get a taxi, jump in and make sure the meter is running so you’ll pay the official rate. That’s all you need. Most taxis have the meter in the mirror, so that you can check your fare. The price starts at 5 TRY.
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Check the route the taxi driver is taking. Sometimes they might take a longer way as they want you to pay more. It’s one of the common scams in Istanbul, but I didn’t experience it. It’s also not that easy to argue if you don’t speak Turkish.
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Make sure you always have cash with you as the taxi drivers usually don’t accept cards. I read online you can pay by card in some taxis, but I didn’t experience that at all. Also, have small banknotes and coins as it may happen to you that the taxi driver won’t be able to give you money back. Then you’ll end up tipping a lot, or you’ll need to wait in the car until the taxi driver changes money, which may be annoying.
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Don’t tip. It’s not common in Turkey, and locals don’t do that. Just because you’re a tourist, you don’t need to pay more than you have to. I usually rounded to get banknotes back instead of coins. Let’s say you have to pay 23 TRY, so it’s OK to pay 25 TRY.
I would recommend taking a taxi for women traveling alone in Istanbul during the day. I always felt safe and didn’t have any issues. At least all my taxi drivers were very friendly. 😊 Just have small banknotes and coins with you, make sure the taximeter is running, check the route on your phone, and you should be fine.
Also! If you have friends taking the taxi with you, the maximum number of passengers in a cab is three. I was in a group of four people, and we ran into an issue to get a taxi together.
Driving a car in Istanbul
There are many websites where you can rent a car and pick it up at one of the airports or somewhere else. I’m a good driver, but I don’t think I would rent a car in Istanbul. The driving style there is crazy, and you’ll need some time to get used to it, especially if you haven’t driven in Turkey before.
Also, the traffic in Istanbul is terrible! The streets are bustling, so if you don’t need to go out from Istanbul by car, take a taxi. It’s much more convenient. I drove with a friend who owns a car, and it’s also challenging to find a parking spot in Istanbul. On a good note, parking garages are not expensive in comparison to European or USA prices.
Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi – “Egyptian Market”) in Istanbul - Turkey
Where to exchange money in Istanbul?
If you have some dollars and euros, take them with you to Istanbul and exchange it there.
Many places in Istanbul accept cards, but not all of them, so you want to exchange some Turkish liras. It’s worth it if you plan to visit sights, shop in small local stores, or get a taxi. Also, in restaurants, you can tip in cash only.
Don’t exchange your money at the airport! Exchange rates offered there are not good, and you’ll be charged a commission, which can be quite high. It’s also not worth doing it at hotels or banks. If you need some cash for a bus or taxi ride to get from the airport, exchange just a small amount of money and then look for a money exchange office (called Doviz) in the city center.
I researched before I exchanged my money and found out that the best place would be the Grand Bazaar. I didn’t believe that as it’s a touristy place, but I tried and YEAH!! It’s a place you want to go to exchange your money. You’ll find many exchange offices around the Grand Bazaar, so you can walk through and compare, but most of them have very good rates and they don’t differ that much.
You can research where to exchange money in the city, but I can also recommend Besiktas Doviz if you stay or go through this area. No commission fee, good exchange rates, and friendly staff.
If you plan on using your card, check with your bank if there are fees for getting money from ATMs. Usually, there are no fees for direct card transactions but getting cash from ATMs can cost you a bit. Also, make sure your card is unblocked when traveling abroad.
It might happen that your bank will block your card if you use it in Turkey because they think it might be a fraud. It’s usually possible to unblock once you call your bank, but it will be annoying to deal with that, and you’ll pay for international calls.
Ortakoy Mosque in Istanbul - Turkey
Where to buy a SIM card in Istanbul?
The easiest way to get one is directly at the airport. There is one-hour free Internet access at the Istanbul International Airport with the wireless kiosks available for passengers and even four-hours at the Sabiha Gokcen International Airport.
If your provider doesn’t allow using data in Turkey, you want to buy a Turkish SIM card. I’ve found two helpful articles providing information about buying SIM cards at the Istanbul International Airport and at the Sabiha Gokcen International Airport.
I used Google FI, which provides you with data worldwide, so you don’t need to buy SIM cards when traveling to different countries. I can recommend it if you travel a lot, but it’s also great for a short vacation. The coverage in Istanbul was good, and I didn’t run into any issues. The only downside is that for now, it’s available for US residents only, which I was in the past.
Where to stay in Istanbul (safe neighborhoods)?
You can choose to stay on the Asian side, which is quieter, safer, and has many affordable accommodations, but it’s far away from the city center with the main tourist attractions.
You can also choose the European side, which is close to the popular tourist attractions with many restaurants, bars, and places to shop. Still, accommodations are usually more expensive, and you need to be careful about the neighborhood you stay in.
As a woman traveling alone, my priority was to be in a safe area, but I also didn’t want to stay far away from the city center as I wanted to explore and visit the most popular tourist attractions. That’s why I decided to stay on the European side of Istanbul and chose the safe neighborhood of Akaretler in Besiktas district.
With the help of my friend living in Istanbul and some people staying in Istanbul for the same reason as I was, I put together some recommendations on where to stay on the European side. Here you can find some of the districts with safe neighborhoods:
Besiktas district including the neighborhoods Levent, Bebek, Ortakoy, and Akaretler
Levent is one of the central business districts with many high-rise hotels, shopping malls, and some restaurants (mainly food chains). It’s the right place if you like shopping and have easy metro access to get wherever you want. It’s pretty busy there, quite loud, and has lots of traffic during business hours.
Bebek is one of the best neighborhoods in Istanbul with its lovely waterfront promenade and many restaurants and bars. It’s relatively busy during the weekends and at night. As it’s quite an expensive neighborhood, you’ll find just a few hotels and apartments. Even if you don’t choose to stay there, it’s worth visiting.
Ortakoy is a nice neighborhood around the famous bridge connecting two continents with the Ortokay Mosque at the central square, many cafes, and charming shops. Ortokay is known for “Kumpirs” (baked and stuffed potatoes) that you can buy on the street. You’ll find here many hotels and affordable Airbnbs where you can stay and enjoy this lovely neighborhood.
Akaretler is a great, small, and safe neighborhood I can recommend to everyone as I stayed here. You’ll find here many restaurants, local coffee shops, and grocery stores. Everything is within walking distance, and you can easily catch a taxi if you want to get a ride to see famous tourist attractions.
I stayed in Turkuaz Suites Bosphorus, where I got a good deal. I wanted to have an apartment with a kitchen to make my meals, but the kitchen was not really equipped for cooking. I quickly realized that it’s much easier to eat in local restaurants as the food is delicious and affordable. Otherwise, I felt very safe at this place, and the staff was friendly. I just needed to get used to the Ezan (call for prayer) from the mosque every morning. 😊
Sisli district including neighborhoods Mecidiyekoy and Nisantasi
Mecidiyekoy is a prestigious neighborhood in Istanbul with many business hotels, a big modern shopping mall (Cevahir), and easy access to the metro. You can find here many hotels to stay in.
Nisantasi is a residential area famous for fancy, brand boutiques and shopping streets, local and international restaurants, and cafes. It’s the right place for foodies and shopping lovers. There are many hotels and apartment buildings where you can stay. Just choose the right one based on your budget.
Beyoglu district including neighborhoods Galata, and Karakoy
Galata is perfect for young people and those who love nightlife. You’ll find here many bars and pubs. The main attraction of this neighborhood is the Galata Tower. Around you can see many restaurants and small shops within walking distance of the famous Istiklal Street. Many Airbnbs are located in this area.
Karakoy is a great neighborhood for budget travelers and young people with many charming cafes, little shops, and outdoor terraces. You’ll find many Airbnbs, hostels, and cheap hotels here. There are also some pricey hotels as well, so it depends on what you prefer.
Sariyer district including neighborhoods Maslak, Tarabya, Istinye, and Yenikov
Quiet neighborhoods where mostly locals live might be relatively far away from the city center, but nice locations to stay.
Be careful if you choose your accommodation in the Fatih district, with the Sultanahmet neighborhood which includes prominent landmarks such as the Blue Mosque or Hagia Sophia. Many blogs recommend this neighborhood for travelers visiting Istanbul for the first time, but locals wouldn’t recommend you stay there for long and especially not if you’re a woman traveling alone. It’s a hectic and touristy area and it might not feel safe.
Also, avoid Taksim Square and the surrounding areas at night as it’s not safe, especially for women.
If you decide to stay on the Asian side, I was recommended the neighborhoods of Kadikoy, Caddebostan and the Uskudar district.
Dinner at Bilice Kebap in Istanbul - Turkey
Where to eat in Istanbul? Places you’ll fall in love with!
There are many places you can find on Tripadvisor or elsewhere that have good restaurant recommendations based on reviews.
That said, here are some of the best spots in Istanbul (on the European side) based on my experience or recommendations from locals. I believe you’ll love them as well!
10 Best Places to Eat in Istanbul (on the European side)
Cakmak Kahvalti Salonu (Besiktas) is a unique local Turkish spot for breakfast. It’s hidden on a tiny street with many other breakfast places, but this one stands out, as you’ll see immediately. When you’re going through the street, many waiters will try to attract you to their places, but this one doesn’t do that as it’s quite busy. The staff is genuinely friendly, caring, and speaks good English. They serve typical Turkish breakfast, and their menu is in English as well. Don’t expect a fancy place, as this restaurant is very simple, but the food is fresh, delicious, and affordable. I’ve heard many young people and students eat in this area.
Minoa Bookstore and Cafe (Besiktas) is such a cute place where I went almost every day for breakfast/brunch as my apartment was just a few steps away. It’s a lovely bookstore connected with a cafe and sitting area outside. The staff is super friendly, some speak English, and they have an English menu as well, so you won’t feel lost. They serve all kinds of tasty and healthy soups, delicious salads, fresh smoothies, homemade lemonades, but also burgers and some meat dishes. You’ll see many young people who bring their laptops and work there for hours, sipping a cup of tea or coffee.
Blum Coffee House (Besiktas) is a place serving delicious coffee and healthy, organic, natural, delicious pastries. It was close to the apartment where I stayed, but I didn’t go there even if many people talked about it. Such a pity! It should be one of the best places if you like coffee, desserts, or a sweet breakfast. So, give this place a try and let me know!
The House Cafe Ortakoy (Besiktas) on the shore of Bosphorus was strongly recommended by my local friend. It has a nice restaurant and two large terraces to sit outside with a great view of the water and the Ortakoy Mosque. They serve a tasty breakfast, delicious desserts, coffee, and tea. It’s a little bit pricier and fancier than the typical Turkish places, but it’s worth visiting.
Feriye Cafe and Restaurant (Besiktas) is a genuinely lovely and modern cafe and restaurant with views of the water. It has two levels. On the upper level you’ll find a cafe and on the lower level a restaurant. You can sit outside or inside. They speak English and offer an English menu. I saw many people working with laptops on the upper level as they have WiFi available and it’s so relaxing there. Feriye is a little bit pricier than other Turkish places, but the location and the quality of food and coffee are worth it.
Mangerie (Besiktas) is a charming place you don’t want to miss when walking on the waterfront promenade in Bebek. It’s more a local spot as most tourists don’t know about it, but the staff speaks English, and they have an English menu. It’s a small restaurant with a beautiful terrace and gorgeous views. I guess it’s better to call ahead, especially for the deck you need a reservation, but it’s so pretty there. They serve fantastic soups, salads, noodles, chicken, fish, and beef. I tried the best mint homemade lemonade I’ve ever had and can recommend Mangerie to everyone who prefers small, quiet and local place.
Koskeroglu Karakoy (Beyoglu) is a family-run business specializing in baklava and other traditional Turkish desserts. They have the best baklava in Istanbul, so if you’re a baklava fan or want to try baklava for the first time, this place won’t disappoint you. It’s crazy delicious! So good that I didn’t want to leave. Koskeroglu is usually busy, but they have enough seats inside or outside, so you should be able to get a spot. If you go there by car, there is a parking garage next to it.
Zubeyir Ocakbasi (Beyoglu) has the best Adana kebab in Istanbul, so you should go there if you’re a kebab lover. This restaurant is remarkably close to Taksim Square and the famous Istiklal Street. The staff is super friendly, and they have a menu in English with pictures, so you’ll want to try everything. The food is super delicious, and I can confirm that the kebab was great. Zubeyir is not as cheap as other kebab places, but you get what you pay for, trust me!
Bilice Kebap (Beyoglu) is a local kebab place recommended by me and other members of the Facebook group “Couples Separated by Travel Bans.” We were a group of four and had a fabulous time there! The staff is amazingly friendly and the food is delicious. It’s a perfect place to go with friends and share all the tasty food. At the end we were asked to write down some nice words on a piece of paper and the staff stuck them on the wall. That’s a tradition there. So, once you make some friends in Istanbul, go there together, enjoy the food, and leave a note on the wall.
HuQQabaz Sirkeci (Fatih) is a chain and was recommended by a group of girls I met in Istanbul through the Facebook group “Couples Separated by Travel Bans.” I didn’t go to this place, but I saw pictures from their breakfast/brunch on Instagram, and they looked terrific! The food is excellent and very affordable.
Galata Tower in Istanbul - Turkey
How to meet people and make friends in Istanbul?
If you’re going to stay longer in Istanbul and travel alone, it’s not always easy as you might miss having a social life.
I can recommend posting in Facebook groups (Couples Separated by Travel Bans and Love is Not Tourism) that you’re going to be in Istanbul and ask if someone wants to join you.
Many people are going through the same situation as you, so don’t hesitate to let them know you’d like to meet. This way, I met great people in Istanbul, and we went together to explore the city and get some good food.
If you’re a young professional, you might also like to become a member of the Internations group. You can register there for free and find events in Istanbul, where you can meet many expats from different countries currently living in Istanbul.
Best things to do in Istanbul
Istanbul is a fantastic city worth exploring, so you should see all the popular tourist attractions if you have enough time. Below I listed some of the ones you don’t want to miss.
NOTE: While visiting mosques in Istanbul, both men and women need to cover their shoulders and knees, and women need to cover their hair. You can carry your own scarf or buy one at the entrance (usually for 5 TRY). Also, mosques are closed during prayer times.
Top 10 things to do in Istanbul
Hagia Sophia – one of the most important monuments in Istanbul. Originally the largest Christian church of the Byzantine empire, it was converted into a mosque in 1453. In 1935 it was established as a museum with beautiful mosaics, and in 2020 reopened as a mosque again.
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque) – an impressive mosque, and one of the most popular tourist attractions is right across from the Hagia Sophia. It’s called the Blue Mosque because of the blue tiles surrounding the interior walls. It’s still an active mosque, so it’s closed during prayer times.
Topkapi Palace Museum and Gülhane park – originally the sultan’s official residence with magnificent architecture, now it’s a huge museum with many exhibits close to the Sultanahmet Square. Close to the palace you’ll find Gülhane Park, which is one of the most beautiful parks in Istanbul.
Basilica Cistern – a unique historic site and Istanbul’s largest surviving Byzantine cistern underneath the city. In the past, it was a huge underground reservoir supplying water for a palace that no longer exists. Despite a lack of attractions inside it’s still worth visiting as it’s very well preserved.
Grand Bazaar – the world’s first shopping market and still one of the world’s biggest covered markets with thousands of shops. Except for many small boutiques, you’ll find here cafes, restaurants, and a Turkish bath as well.
Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi – “Egyptian Market”) – the best places for buying herbs, spices, tea, nuts, and the traditional Turkish delight (Lokum).
Dolmabahce Palace – a glamorous palace built along the Bosphorus coastline, replaced the Topkapi palace as the sultan's primary residence. It consists of the main palace and the Harem surrounded by beautiful gardens and stunning views of the Bosphorus waterfront.
Galata Tower with surrounding cafes – a medieval stone tower was the tallest one in Istanbul when it was built. Nowadays, it offers greatviews of the old city and its surroundings. Close to the tower, you'll find many cafes and restaurants to sit and enjoy Turkish tea or coffee.
Taksim Square and Istiklal Street – a modern and busy area located in Beyoglu district known for numerous shops, restaurants, and cafes. It’s the ultimate place for shopping lovers.
Camlica Mosque – the largest mosque in Turkey which was completed and opened in 2019. This impressive, modern mosque is situated on the Camlica Hill (the highest point of Istanbul) with panoramic views of Bosphorus, including the two bridges connecting Asia and Europe.
Dolmabahce Palace in Istanbul - Turkey
Departure from the Istanbul International Airport
After spending 16 days in Istanbul, I finally got to my departure day. I took a taxi to the Istanbul International Airport, and from Ortakoy, it was 140 TRY and 35 minute’s drive.
Take enough time for all the security checks at the Istanbul airport. I arrived three hours before my flight departure and was surprised by the queue of people waiting in front of the building. If you’re not a passenger, you’re not allowed to enter the airport building, so they ask for your passport and boarding pass (or e-ticket/booked flight confirmation) before the entrance.
Once you enter the airport building, you go through the first security check. It’s the same one as the usual security checks when going to your gate. Before you check in your luggage, they’ll check a stamp in your passport to see how long you stayed in Turkey and if you’re allowed to enter the USA. If you’re traveling with ESTA/Visa, they’ll also check if it’s valid, and you’re good to go to check in your bags.
Important NOTE: Don’t check-in online if you’re traveling with ESTA and are a citizen of any country of the Schengen Area. Your ESTA might be canceled. Do the check-in at the airport.
Once you drop off your baggage and get your boarding pass, you must go through passport control and another security check. When I headed to my gate, there was additional security. Three different people were checking my passport over and over again but didn’t ask any questions. After that, my personal bag was checked, and I was finally allowed to continue to the gate, where they measured my temperature. Without any additional questions, I was allowed to board and get my seat.
The airplane was partially empty, so I had three seats for myself, making the eleven-hour flight pretty comfortable. I can recommend you ask for a seat at the rear of the airplane at check-in. The plane’s back is usually empty if it’s not a fully booked flight, and your chance to get three seats gets higher.
Once I landed in Washington D.C., I went through a passport control and was asked why I’m visiting the USA and if I’m traveling with ESTA. Once the officer figured out I quarantined in Turkey, he let me in. So I made it!
I recommend you immediately mention you quarantined in Turkey as in my case I was not asked and the officer thought I was coming directly from the Czech Republic, which caused a lot of confusion, additional questions, and more unnecessary time at the airport.
Good luck and much strength to all of you who are going through this difficult time. If you decided on the same journey as I did, don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
If I made it, you’ll make it too!